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La Cola
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Apr 12, 2006 4:36 pm
1543 Views
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La Cola means the tail, in English. It is the phrase the Cubans use to describe the waiting line or the queue. In Socialist countries such as Cuba, La Cola is an essential part of life. It is not my favorite part as you will soon learn. The following story is an example of this. While I explain, perhaps you will see some humor in it. You will learn it is simply an aspect of the life here.
A tourist visa is good for one month in Cuba unless you are Canadian in that case you receive three months. If one needs to extend it, there are two options and two options only. One can leave Cuba for a few hours and return or get a extension. Naturally, Most people get extensions. The extension is for an additional month. It happened to be my last day in Havana on my visa and I needed an extension. Over the years this ritual of the extension has changed. The location has changed several times as well as the procedure. It is always a bit of a crap shoot when you go for the extension. Shit happens and then we sometimes step in it.
Anyway, I arrived at the location in Tulipan(off aveneda Boyaros) at 2:30 PM. The military guard informed me that the office (building) was only open from 8:30 Am to 1:30Pm. Lovely I thought. I explained that my visa was expiring today and I really needed to get my extension today. He assured me that this was not a problem and to return tomorrow at 6:30 AM because "La Cola" was very long. 6:30 my ass, I thought.
Before one can get an extension one needs to buy 25.00USD of official stamps. Should you try to give them 25.00USD or even 25.00USD and a tip neither will work. Now these colorful stamps used to be sold at several locations such as all the post offices. I however, was smart enough to ask the guard about the stamps. He told me this year they were only sold at the Banco de Comecio y Credito. Or what we would call the Bank of Commerce and Credit. As luck would have it this happens to be my bank. So what started out bad had just significantly improved
Or so I assumed. Luckily I had learned many years ago here that one of the first rules here is, Never assume anything.
Unfortunately, now it was 20 minutes later and at 2;50 I could not make it to the bank before it closed at 3: 00 sharp.Humm, Well this shot 6:30 AM to pieces. Due to the fact I needed the stamps. The bank does not open to 8:30.The plot was thickening.
The Cubans are always rather appreciative of a man in a jacket and a tie. Frankly it is amazing how many doors it opens here. If you come to Cuba dressed like a beach bum you will be treated like one. The Spanish have used this
ruse for years and very effectively. Believe me I was well aware of this. Similar to using crisp bills in Third World countries it gives one respect, whether deservedly or not. Therefore, the snickers I get on the airplane mean little to me as I change into my jacket and tie in the bathroom on the plane. Because, I am sailing smoothly through customs and immigration while the beach bums are getting the third degree. The following day I awoke and sensing a potential problem, I threw on a Jacket and a tie.
The Cubans use a rather neat expression they say. Rather than I sensed a problem, they say I smelled a problem. The also use "I heard a whisper" a delightful and charming expression to describe a rumor. The ladies of Cuba also appreciate a well dressed man, much more so, than the beach bum look. Should you plan on plucking an extraordinary Cuban flower, you will be well served to be dressed elegantly. This will not only make a woman feel special but will ease things with her family as well. Ahhh those Spaniards, smart fellows.
I arrived at the bank at 8:15 AM. There was a Cola of 20 people waiting for the doors to open. Imagine that! " No es facil" (It is not easy) is a witty Cuban expression (with the eyes rolled). The expression seemed appropriate here. In front of the door was an ancient black lady. She was washing the sidewalk in front of the bank. The Cuban cleaning ladies always seem to pick odd times for their cleaning. The marble sidewalk at the bank has a neat geometric design. They wash floors here with two buckets of water and a T shaped stick, normally with a ratty towel attached. They alternate between the buckets as they push the water over the curb. They next twist the towel with their hands to wring the nasty water into the filthy bucket. After their rinse coat they wave a semi dry towel on the end of the T to provide air movement to dry it. Perhaps it works but it seems like a ridiculous amount of work. I have yet to see a wringer here in my many years of tourist visits.
The queen of the bank or La Jefa (the boss) seemed shocked to see me. I laughed with her as she said it must be something important to get me out of bed. She of course had walked across the half dry sidewalk to the half irritated half resigned look of the cleaning lady. La Jefa said hello to several clients. She gave and received the Cuban double kiss to the cheek as she frustrated the cleaning lady with every pass. At precisely 8:25 she grabbed me and we walked to the doorway. I avoided the cleaning ladys gaze. I really supposed that she was going to pull me in early. Nope. She had pointed me to the window she wanted me to go to. Finally, she darted into the bank leaving me on the doorstep with old the cleaning lady and her half dry sidewalk. Glaring at me was now the 40 person Cola . It is amazing how fast it grows. The Cubans hate the fact that the tourists normally get to jump the cola and rightly so. The bank is a spot where La Cola is very strong because we are all clients. La Cola was sneering at me. I try very hard almost always with the Cubans, not to jump the cola. I happened to notice that the security guard at the door had taken this all in. The security forces do not work directly for the bank or for that matter any business. Therefore, while he worked at the bank, he did not work for La Jefa.
I had turned my back on the security guard. I suppose then he motioned the crowd forward, because all of a sudden I was third in the line at the door. We rushed the door and fortunately the others went to different windows. I planted myself at the window La Jefa told me to. I opened my mouth and just then I was nudged with a firm hand from the left by a short man. He told me he was first. Oh shit, I thought, as I mumbled something about La Jefa holding my ground. Now he was making a big scene. Now the security guard was at my side. Of course La Jefa had completely disappeared. Indeed, the last thing I wanted is a scene, let alone a BIG scene at my bank. Especially when I know I am in the wrong and the last thing I want is to be some asshole tourist throwing dollars, carrying a big stick and shouting orders. What did I do? I excused myself and moved to the side waiting for the next person to pull the same routine. As I move to the side, the 50 or so people cheer (I hope for my apology) but perhaps a little of both. I go sit down. I am sure my face is beet red. La Jefa returns shaking her head. I know this she wolf watched the whole scene from those darkened windows in the back. She grabs my passport and the 25.00USD for the stamps as she shakes her head at me. My shirt is half soaked. La Jefa gives a forearm shiver to the little man who nudged me midway through his transaction. She then forces a laugh, smile, and the less friendly single peck on the cheek as he backs away. I can see she is steaming. Her opinion is after all she is the boss and the fellow should have not pushed the situation. My hero comes back with my stamps. I am sure my face is crimson, I know I am dripping wet. I thank her and scurry out of the bank with my tail between my legs. It is 8:37.
My driver is waiting. I had arranged for a taxi particular as my regular driver was unavailable. A taxi particular is basically an illegal non government private car. It is substantially more economical than a government taxi. Unfortunately, it was a Russian made Lada without air-conditioning. I am perspiring from my ordeal. He is very sympathetic having witnessed the whole thing. what could I do" he says. Yes I am glad to have that Cola behind me. We arrive at the office in Tulipan at 8:55.The Immigration office is a part of the Minister of the Interior. This corps has different colored uniforms to identify them. In the old days there was an auxiliary office in the Habana Libre Hotel the Myer Lansky built here. It used to be the Hilton. They Ministry closed that office a few years ago. Then the office was in Vedado, then Mirimar. Now it is in Tulipan and unless you or your driver knows where it is it is most difficult to find. The compound has a large building with a cabana for tourists needing extensions. In fact last year it was outside, this year they are in the air- conditioned Cabaña. The main building also takes care of Cubans who are marring foreigners. There is now other location to extend your visa it is this location or you leave Cuba. One year, long ago I did not get my visa extended and the Ministry of the Interior tracked me down. I had a 4 hour interview, but that is another story although one with some humor as well.
Now as much as I respect the Cubans Cola (normally) I detest the tourists lack of respect for it. So as I walked up to the entrance dressed to the nines, I had very mixed emotions. It was precisely 9: 00 Am in front of me was the mother of all Colas. It stretched for 1/4th of a mile. or about four blocks. It was full of tourists. I had not seen a Cola such as this since my high school days. Then it was at least worth it. Before computers it was the Rolling Stones. I asked who was El Ultimo. That honor was now mine. I quickly surmised that I would be lucky to get in the door before the 1:30 closing time. Humm I put on my thinking cap. Actually, I just don't like tourists, I try to avoid them. I prefer hanging out with the Cubans. Answering all the same questions over and over from tourists bores me to tears. Italians (visiting Cuba) particularly I dislike. They are abundant and treat the Cuban woman roughly and that irritates me. I began to rationalize. There were a lot of Italians in my Cola. Now I am well known here and conversely know a lot of people here as well. While I am friendly with the Jefe of the Airports immigration office. I did not think I had any friends here. But it might be at the least worth a look see. My options seemed to be: I could try tomorrow and risk a visit from the
Immigration authorities (I did not like that option) or I could go see my friend at the airport who might or might not be there. Or I could see my friend who is a mucky muck in Havanatours and she could facilitate my VIP treatment, if she happened to be there. Or.....I could try to jump the Cola here.
I rationalized that these Italians deserved to be outsmarted by a Yuma. A Yuma is an old word of endearment used exclusively for Americans who either lived here or spent a very significant amount of time here. Yes, I am a Yuma. In recent years especially in the countryside I find the Cubans misusing this word. They now tend to include Canadians and even Europeans who are here for long periods, I correct them and remind them that one day I will not be the only Yuma here.
Soon I gave the honor of being el Ultimo to the next tourist. I then hurried off to have a look at the lay of the land. The Cola system allows for significant periods of relief from the Cola. They save your spot. I sauntered around the edge of the Cola, blending in to the scenery as I was the only tourist in jacket and tie. Soon I arrived at the side door which actually is the driveway. This is blocked by a large imposing chain and three guards who I suppose prevent the cola from attacking.(just kidding).Anyway, I saw the set up. Regrettably, no one charged at me to shake my hand nor to let me pass. Well why not the frontal attack? After all I was the only fellow in a jacket and tie. I took my Passport form it's protective case and excused myself to the closed door that was the door of freedom from the Cola. Two people were ahead of me in the temporary line. These temporary lines always seem to irritate not only those waiting but those who deny almost each and every request. I listened and assumed the attitude of those dismissing each request. Rolling my eyes at both denials to gain camaraderie. The trick here is to number One be, very lucky. Number Two to be different. Number Three to somehow endear yourself to the person(s) with the power to grant
your request. Really it is just basic salesmanship. Also it helps to know of the history and the special affection Cubans have for the American people. Truly it is amazing after all the years the U.S government has screwed the Cuban people, they still love us. We are almost unconditionally loved, respected and revered here. Not just by a few but at a rate of 1000 to 1. Remarkable. That is why my Passport came out. I knew I was perhaps not the only American in the Cola but I was certainly the only Yuma in the Cola.
I should explain that my Spanish is uniquely Cuban. I have been here for 12 years. I never studied a day of Spanish in school. I learned on the streets of Havana. The rhythm of my speech is uniquely Cuban. My diction is 100% Cuban and the idioms I use are unmistakably Cuban. Wherever I am, as soon as my first words come out any Spanish speaking person knows I am speaking Cuban Spanish. It is similar to a southerner or a Brooklyn accent...you know right away. This would not be a big deal in itself. But this is coupled with another fact. This fact is that it is impossible for a Cuban (or anyone else for that matter) to assume that I am Cuban or of Cuban decent. I am very WASPY looking. So this in itself automatically intrigues listener. With my American Passport it is a complete paradox. In other words it puts people off guard, it intrigues them. They are curious and want to hear more. In America I am very cautious of speaking Spanish as the exile community has elements that are fanatically opposed to my being here.
So I laid out my story as follows:...I also know that the Cubans work in shifts of one day on one day off in many departments and as I had not recognized anyone from the day before. I assumed this to be the case here at Tulipan. I said that I was in the Cola yesterday. Yes, I lied. I explained furthermore that after waiting all day I had been told to go get the stamps. I showed the stamps. Now I had returned with the stamps and I was reluctant to wait another whole day in the cola. I flashed my Passport as a Major was passing. I raised my voice substantially and spoke rapidly in of course my Cuban accent. Now a Major has some serious clout. He wears one large star. I flashed the Passport again and saluted the Major in my jacket and tie. addressed a good morning to him. I launched into the explanation again as he came nearer. Of course my eyes never left him. In the middle of my third sentence he ordered Passé! I was in!! The Cabana had no Cola. It was now 9:15.My interview went rapidly as I sucked up to the lovely lady officers. I had sent my car away. Found another and returned to my apartment at 9:40.Delighted.
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Cultura de Cuba
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Apr 10, 2006 7:51 am
1708 Views
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The Minister of Culture Abel Prieto is hailed as many as the most influential man in Cuba. He has long flowing hair and is about as far from the normal looking hard liner as you could imagine. If you saw him for the first time you would assume he was a singer of ballads in some coffee shop. He looks frankly more like a middle aged hippy than a Minister in Cuba's government. If you look at the progress of Culture in Cuba he seems to be guiding the ship in profitable choppy waters. Culture is of course a big part of any socialist model. Socialistic countries tend to hang their hat of the successes of Education, Medicine and Sports. Cuba is no exception to this. If we look at percentages pre Castro and post Castro in these three areas clearly Cuba has something to be proud of. From the literacy rate to the ratio of Doctors as a percent of the population, Cuba has made great strides. In Sports the Cuban National teams are powerhouses. I am quite certain that their medal count in the last 25 years is greater than any other country weighted by population. The other area Socialist countries hang their hat is Cultural. Is Cuba Culturally advancing at the same rate as Education, Medicine and Sports? Let's look at a few areas:
1) Music: This is a very difficult area to judge. It is hard to argue with the successes back in the day before Mr. Castro. The Cubans have always been innovators of music styles and keen executioners. The first 25 years of the Castro years took it's toll on music here. It was not a priority and frankly it suffered almost a knockout blow. At some point in the last 15-20 years Cuba woke up from a long music coma. Not that one can make a defense for it's actions or try to justify them but we can understand why this happened. The late Fifties and Sixties were dominated in the western world by Elvis, The Beatles, The Stones, drug culture, Hendrix, and more drugs. Obviously there were threads woven together between Kids, drugs and music. Hippies and yippees running around. This cultural aspect of music scared many parents. I am reasonably sure it scared the Cuban government as well. The seventies brought about more of the same bands, drugs, The Grateful Dead, The Doors, Deep Purple, Kiss and more unrest and of course more drugs. One must admit a scary time to be a socialist government or a parent. The first part of the eighties was much the same. Conservatism came with Regan and it seemed music had finally broken free of the drug culture...Or had it? About this time (the early to mid Eighties) Cuba's music scene began to awake from it's long absence. Los Van Van led the salsa bands and ChuChu Valdez led the Cuban Jazz movement back into the world spotlight (except in America of course). Here in Cuba pre Mr. Castro we had a tremendous run of great music. Mongo, Celia, Sanduval, just incredible music. By one of Ry Cooders Buena Vista Social Clubs works if you dont believe me. Unfortunately, Rys efforts to save and share this old music and artists have been curtailed by the Bush administration. Notable music of today includes but certainly is not limited to: Los Van Van, Paulito FG, EddyK, La Changara, Chu Chu Valdez ECT
America is censoring Cuban music through it's efforts to rid Cuba of Castro largely through the power of expatriates such as the Estepahns Emillio and Gloria, Andy Garcia, Christina who like Oprah uses her platform to form public opinion. The CNAF (Cuban National American Foundation).The families Bacardi, Fanjual and Lobo. Political muscle such as Mas Canosta's family, Lincoln Diez Ballert and Ileana Ros-Lehtinen. Sadly, we continue to see this censorship today. With the emergence of the internet and the will of the American youth this censorship is beginning after forty years to crumble. Often, the Cuban expatriate exile community tends to shot themselves in the foot. They continue to make the mistakes such as, trying to suppress Cubans from being nominated to the Grammy Awards or the Latin Music Awards and others. This creates an awareness of the censorship much as the Elian saga recently turned public opinion against their cause to open Cuba to U.S tourism.
It always irks this author that we are The land of the free" except to visit Cuba. or that we do business with China, Libya, North Korea, Viet Nam, Cambodia and many more but freeze out poor neighbor Cuba. Or the asinine assessment of Cuba being on the list of terrorist countries. That is the biggest crock of dog dung, ever sold to the American public. It is tragically funny how Cuba is not on any other countries terrorist list. The only terrorists in Cuba are the ones the U.S government put on Guantanamo. That, by the way is on the Cuba mainland and the U.S government blackmailed Cuba into occupying it.
Nowadays, Cuba has much the same quandary as it had leading into the sixties and the coma years of Cuban music. Their current problem is . This country is one of mixed blood about 70% of Cubans have some mixed African blood running through their veins. is emerging rapidly and aggressively. The lyrics tend to be tamer than their American counterparts, but the message is the same albeit currently softer or rather hidden more discreetly. often uses vulgar language, often describes the glamour of making a fast buck often illegally, is violent by nature and content. One never makes love to , however one might have hard sex while listening to it. is not soft, it is repetitive and thought provoking. It is this message that I am sure worries Minister Prieto and Srs Lage, Alacon and of course the Castros. Cuban music has now much the same process as ours. It is up to the writers and performers how to present it. Will this change and if so how? I watched a performer recently in Holguin perform "You sexy motherfOOcker" onstage. I was surprised. I have seen several rappers go off on the life here too. But this message is a time bomb in my humble opinion. All revolutions start with the youth. Minister Prieto has done tremendous good for Cuba and the Culture of Cuba. This, will be his greatest challenge I think. If the government shoots the messenger (in Mr. Prieto) they will have an impossible job of replacing him. Advantage pre Mr. Castro
2) Dance: I would say has increased significantly Post Castro. The Cubans are perhaps the finest dancers in the world. What I mean here is that if you compare total populations of each country, I would say a greater percent of Cubans are good dancers than comparative percentages of all other countries. Just about everyone can Salsa. Salsa was born here simultaneously with Mexico Venezuela, much the same as Jazz was in Chicago, St. Louis and New Orleans. Cuba has gone to great lengths to rekindle African Cuban Dance such as Son. The traditional Ballet National de Cuba is headed by the 83 years young Diva Alicia Alonso. Alicia is a phenomenal story that spans the Pre Castro years through the Post Castro. She is of course Cuban started dancing seriously at 14.Toured with the American Ballet Theatre and other companies in the States and world pre Castro. After Castro took power she returned to Cuba to found the first private enterprise, her beloved Ballet National de Cuba. She was one of the most decorated dancers ever while she was dancing. Her company is also one of the most decorated in the world. In just about anyones list they would be in the top 5 ballets in the world and have held this ranking for many years. She has produced some of Ballet's brightest stars. Most interestingly perhaps she helped create a model so that her stars work in other countries and come and go as they like. Therefore, someone like the Principal balerin Carlos Acosta, is currently dancing in London with the Royal Ballet. He gives a small potion of his salary back to the Cuban government (somewhat like a tax) and he is welcome to come and go keeping his citizenship intact and having a lovely home in Havana. I would like to see more of this spread to other aspects of Culture including Doctors, Sports figures, Authors, Painters, Sculptures and Musicians.
Fernando Alonso (Alicias first husband) was a principal dancer of grand stature in his own right. After co founding Alicias company, he built up the Ballet Camagüey. Ballet Camagüey is a significant company it is often overshadowed by the National. His and their accomplishments sometimes get lost, however they are a formidable company that now produces an excellent caliber of talent on a regular basis. There are several other notable companies of traditional dance including but not limited to List Alfonzo's company and Cuba's Ballet Espana. Pro Danza in Havana is run by Laura Alonso yep you guessed it...Alicia and Fernando's daughter. They have a full repotoire of contemporary and classical ballets. There are scores of contemporary companies well worth seeing and abundant traditional and Carnival style folklore companies to choice from. Dance is alive and well in Cuba. One must note however that dance has always been alive and well in Cuba. With the Son, Rumba, ChaChaCha and Mambo starting here Pre Castro. The other type of Dance born in Cuba is the Vegas style. One could claim Zigfield as the father of this style. Most would agree that Vegas is patterned after Cuba and that the Vegas show is clearly patterned after the Tropicana. Indeed, the Tropicana is alive and well in Cuba, still producing riveting shows. Costumed in the exotic bigger is better themes these mulattas are guaranteed to hold your interest. Dance is alive and well in Cuba. Advantage Mr. Castro
3) Fine Art.(Film, Paintings and Sculpture) : Cuba has made some great films recently. Mr. Prieto has nurtured the film industry. While this is important given the Cubans affection for films. It is also a dilemma. Cubans pay in pesos for their films nationally. All the while, the films of Hollywood receive dollars for their efforts Cuba does not. difficult problem for the most glamorous of the fine arts. Cubas film industry before Mr. Castro was the largest in Latin America. Most if not all major Hollywood studios had facilities here. In Cuba's defense most everything produced here pre Mr. Castro was produced for American consumption. These films were not Cuban by origin. Therefore, even though Cuba's film industry was many times larger and better equipped...Advantage. Mr. Castro.
Painters in the years before Mr. Castro were few and far between. Many of the recognized styles or schools of art arrived late to Cuba, therefore Cuba's notoriety as a Mecca for "cutting edge art was diminished. Sure the artists were keen executioners of the various styles but it was later whether Modernism or Impressionism or any other traditional art form for that matter. There are a few notable exceptions to this but frankly not too many. Contemporary Cuban Art is quite the contrary. Much of the promising art is influenced by the Santeria, Cubas African Cuban religion. It is cutting edge outside of the redundant tourist drek. Actually, it is strange that this transpired due to Cuba's official atheist State policies. Perhaps, it was a way of expressing the Cuban spirit through it's Art forms. I really do not know. But for whatever reason Cuba is the leader in this unique style of art. Advantage Mr. Castro.
One should note however the contributions of the architects and craftsmen pre Castro. Many craftsmen were used by Cubas exciting architects for interiors, facades, frescos and the like to support the uniquely Cuban form of Art Deco. Most of these architects and craftsmen have either died or moved to Miami.
Sculpture on the other hand has all but disappeared here in Cuba. Unless one counts wood carvings and frankly this author recognizes this form of sculpture but it is not his favorite. With the heavy Deco influence in sculpture the nod goes to pre Mr. Castro, However, the Fine Art category is a clear Advantage Mr. Castro.
4) Authors: Cuban authors have always been well respected and very creative. Some notables have fled Mr. Castro's Cuba for more freedom of the written word. Cuba continues to produce serious novels, poetry, biographies, historical texts and others. While censorship remains here, Cubas magazines and newspapers are not independently owned and operated. Thus variety and opinion are suppressed. Advantage pre Mr. Castro.
5) Museums: Nowadays, Cuba has darn near a museum for anything you can imagine. Batista and his predecessors had nowhere near the amount of museums Cuba now boasts. One could spend six months seeing a museum a day and still not see half the museums here. The National Museo de Belle Artes has undergone a splendid renovation and is now the principle museum in Cuba. The flip side of this coin is Mr. Prieto's predecessors seem to have expanded their museums with little forethought in many cases. The major museums under Mr. Prieto have developed and flourished. The problem is what to do with many of the local museums. These in many cases are in poor condition not only exhibit wise but architecturally as well. Many of these are located in small towns and frankly have little to offer. They are redundant. Of course this is not an easy problem to inherit. If you take away or try to consolidate these someone undoubtedly feels left out. Mr. Prietos staff has done a fair job of identifying consolidating the major art objects and displaying them in the major locations. I am somewhat disappointed in the lack of self promotion in this area of culture. The second best (fine art) museum in Cuba is the Bacardi Museo located in Santiago de Cuba not that the government would want to promote it's arch rival Bacardi(corporation)'s name but, no Tee shirts, hats or other traditional promotional items are sold there. This is a shame. Museums here seem to have forgot that the museum store is a substantial revenue stream. Not only that but the promotional value these items have is substantial. Cuba should at least sell these through a website. Conservation of museum property is an area that has been neglected in the post Mr. Castro years. this needs to be readdressed or Cuba will continue to lose many of it's treasures. The price of insurance prohibits the Cubans from swapping exhibits with other major museums. Therefore much of the traveling exhibits forego Cuba. Advantage: Mr. Castro
So in answer to my question I believe I can safely say that Cuba with the exception of authors and sculptors is either ahead in each category or at least moving in the right direction under Mr. Prietos able leadership....Sorry I could not resist the play on words. as Mr. Prieto's given name is Abel. After all Culture is a very serious subject but it is supposed to be fun too.
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Baracoa Cuba
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Apr 10, 2006 7:36 am
1455 Views
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One must start at the beginning with Baracoa. It was the first place Christopher Columbus set foot in the New World. Diego Velázquez came back in 1510 and it was the first of the seven original cities of Cuba. Baracoa was the
first Capital of Cuba. The cities streets were lit and there was a cultural museum 100 years before the Pilgrims landed in Plymouth. The Cruz de la Parra is here. This is one of the 29 crosses left in Cuba by the Spaniards. It is the oldest Colonial city in the New World. It is where Columbus declared in his journal. I have seen the most beautiful place my eyes have ever seen"
A legendary story regarding one of the towns local heroes, Hatuey, tells of the Spanish conquest of the local Taino Indians .Hatuey was a chief from the nearby island of the Dominica (although then it was not a republic and not divided into two parts).The Spaniards were murdering the heathen Indian tribes just as our country did .However, as this was a few centuries before, it was being done in the name of the holy Catholic church. Eventually the Spaniards completed a genocide the Indian population in Cuba. Hatuey being the hero that he was, paddled in his canoe to Cuba to warn his brother Indian tribes of the danger. The Indians were pacifists. They had never fought a large force. They may have fought the Carib Indians but that was centuries before. Certainly, they never fought modern weapons with their knives, spears and bows. So Hatuey's mission was to warn the tribes. When he arrived he was faced with the difficult challenge of first making his Indian brothers believe. Next, organizing a native revolt and fortifying what little existing defenses there were. A rather tall order indeed. But he succeeded in harassing the Spaniards. In fact he burned the capital city of Baracoa. The Spaniards tried to catch him for several months unsuccessfully. Finally he was caught. He was to be burned at the stake just as the Pilgrims burned witches to cleanse their heathen spirits. The Spaniards were of the belief that if they could convert Hatuey to Christianity, they would quash the remaining Indian resistance into the submission that would lead to slavery. A very good strategy. For days they explained this in front of the other captives. Again the Priests explained the concept of heaven and that he would not only be spared the flames but that his soul would go heaven. Then in front of his Indian brother Hatuey asked the pointed question." Are all of you Spaniards going die and your souls enter this blissful paradise of Heaven you describe? The priests replied "Absolutely" Hatuey then made his Statement that "If heaven is where you who have murdered my Indian brothers go, I choose to not go there. Burn me at the stake. You still might run across the spirit of Hatuey in the local Cuban beer of the same name.
Baracoa is very difficult to reach. There are only two flights from Havana a week. the road from the mineral rich town of Moa is treacherous as is the other entry from Guantanamo over the most dangerous road in Cuba
"La Farola"(the Beacon) Baracoa sits on the Northeastern end of Cuba not far from the country of Haiti. The terrain is similar to that of Jamaica, mountainous. Most of the mountains are unexplored. Cubas most excellent coffee is grown here as well as cocoa to make our beloved chocolate. The large hardwood trees of this
region are unique to Cuba and make some of the finest furniture in the world. Of course seafood is abundant. there are several of Cuba's 400 rivers here suitable for a kayak or rafting. El Yunge mountain (The Anvil) is here, much
the same as it was described in Columbus's journal. You can still see the intermixed Indian blood in the Cubans here.
There are two hotels here. One of my favorite hotels in Cuba is El Castillo ( the Castle or Fortress) which is built on the site of the old fortress. El Castillo has a commanding view of the harbor just as the cannons did. My friend Arturo is your host of their well appointed restaurant. He is truly a Cuban gem. He will convince you to drink the water of Baracoa of which it is said Once you taste the water of Baracoa you will always return".
When the Cubans in other parts of Cuba speak of Baracoa it is always with a bit of awe and a smile. This is a special revered travel destination for Cubans. There really is not much to do here in this quiet town. But it does
have it's alluring magic. There is a small elegant beach nearby Playa Magauna. Other beaches include the local beach and another quiet semi private one near the airport Porto Santo. Baracoa used to have one of the greatest
of Cuban palladars, Walters. Walters suffered the fate of the New Cuba. It was too successful. The government closed Walters doors two years ago. In fact now that I think of it Walters was indeed in the first group of seizures of
licenses by the government. Not a very pleasant distinction to have. Along with Walters the crackdown included the elimination of the condominium experiment with Imoblilarie. For a time one could buy condos in Cuba Perhaps, the
government decided that this was too much freedom for the tourists and detrimental to the countries success. Several other palladars notably in Havana were closed at this time. independent business which had flourished during the time roughly coinciding with the Clinton presidency were also closed.
Baracoa has a new hotel located smack dab in the middle of the city. Some restoration projects are underway as in other parts of Cuba to the governments credit. The problem here is there is a new Governor of the province of
Guantanamo and he like his newly elected companaro in Holguin is making like very tough on the Cubans. Like Holguin many licenses for casa particulars have been taken away. There are no new palladars. The street merchants have been allowed to stay for the time being but for how long? The girls have been rounded up and sent away or put on work release programs as in Holguin. Tourists are not allowed to have Cubans in their rented casa particulars. Unlike Holguin where a tourist may have one visitor per stay in the casa whether a night or a month. Naturally, this will lead to the elimination of all but a few casas as the price the Cuban Dueño's pay continues to escalate. The cliental now is forced to utilize the under-booked Cuban hotels thereby generating more income for the government. This is their plan. It is not as it seems on the surface to eliminate prostitution. It is to generate income for the hotels. prostitution is a harsh word that really has no place in Cuba due to the abundance of woman trying to simply feed their families. An occasional date for cash has always been not only accepted but an important part of the Cuban culture and more importantly economy. In the process of this new strategy the government has alienated it's longtime male visitors who openly promote Cuba as bachelor destination. Remember,
90% of all Cuban tourists are male. The Cuban government is banking on word not traveling fast. Savvy woman bacheloretts will now
encounter the same regulations. One in ten thousand visitors is a child. Cuba cannot become a family destination overnight. Simply stated other than the beach and stickball on the street corners there is not much to attract an electronic age youth.
Baracoa's rivers flow through the mountains. There is rafting and kayaking to be had here. Moa is the closest major town to the north and west on the coast, Here you will find Cuba's huge Nickel mines. the ground is clay red and shows off it's rich minerals. Moa has a heavy population of Canadians as the mines are operated jointly with Canada's Sherritt Corporation and the Cubans. Driving from Holguin to Baracoa on the Northern carterra or highway one passes through the gigantic refining facilities in Moa. They are impressive. The Northern Carterra is in poor shape from about 30 miles west of Moa all the way through to Baracoa making it a slow difficult drive. However it is beautiful country as you pass along the ocean most of the trip. Baracoa has a local TV in one of it's parks in the center of town it is there for the Cubans who don't have a TV to watch the two channels Cuba provides, There are some lively conversations among the regulars too. Baracoa has a street festival on weekend evenings. This can be fun. During certain times of the year the town has rival Congo lines giving you quite a workout. There are two discos in town one is, "The Punta" located on the edge of town on the point. The other is EL Ranchón, Located on the top of the same hill as the El Castillo Hotel, It is a workout climbing the stairs but the music and view make the trip well worth your while.
Normally, I stay with a wonderful family here in Baracoa. I had had the pleasure of staying with the same family for around eight years. They truly are my family in Baracoa. The house is located a short block from the Parque Marti. It is a terrific set up the house has a nice front porch, is in excellent condition inside is a large living room (salon) and two large bedrooms both with Air conditioning. A comfortable bathroom with hot water splits the bedrooms. In the back there is a nice sized courtyard with a covered area for dining. The kitchen is in a separate building, above the kitchen is more family sleeping quarters. When I come, the family moves out of the main house and stays in the unattached building. I have the whole place to myself. We share the kitchen and the dinning area. A very capable maid comes with the package and she cleans and washes and irons my clothes. My price for this paradise, in one of my favorite towns is a whopping 15USD per day. Normally it would be more but I have helped the family with several projects over the years and my price has stayed the same.
The dueño of this casa and I got along famously from day one. The dueño, grew grapes on the roof when I first came and made wine. The wine was a little rough but not bad. Every year there was a surplus of grapes that went to waste. I suggested to my pal that he not only save his grapes but that he buy the other growers surplus. He did and for two years we made a tasty jam the his wife made a small killing on. A few years ago the government decided to close this operation of about fifteen local growers. With the profits from the wine and jam operations they built a very nice self contained studio apartment on the roof. This is a difficult license to obtain due to the restrictions of building and building materials. Fortunately, Baracoa is a small town and my friends were well respected and well liked. Now I had never stayed in the studio because frankly I loved the whole house set up.
A year and a half ago their daughter fell and was transferred to the hospital in Havana for rehabilitation. Her, Mom was spending the months of January and February in Havana to be with her. Hey I was in Havana in January too. I dialed her up at the hospital and she came to my house a few days later for my famous American pancakes. The Cubans love sweet things and I had spotted pancake mix and Log Cabin syrup at the newly opened Palco store that caters to the substantial diplomatic crowd that resides here. Needless to say my pancakes were a huge hit. I found some puree of strawberries and apples to garnish the pancakes with quite similar to Trader Joes strawberry apple sauce. The dueña and I had a big old time and she was pleased to have me in the house while she was away to keep an eye on her man. The problem was that the government had taken away her license for the two rooms in the main house and their was now only the studio apartment on the roof. No problem, I will take it I chirped.
The month of February, I like to spend in the Campo. The weather is a bit warmer in the Campo and truly it is nice to get away from the city and see what changes the New Year had brought. Actually, I had not been for two years due to an illness in my family in the States. Last year I was only in Cuba for two months and those I spent in Havana. So I was really looking forward to my trip. My line up was Camagüey for 5 days, las Tunas for 5 days, Holguin for a week and Baracoa for 12 blissful days to chill out before returning to Havana for March. My schedule was flexible as always and I was very secure that if things did not go well in the other cities, I was perfectly happy to spend the extra days in Baracoa. Camagüey was OK but I left a day early. Las Tunas was terrible and I stayed for 3 nights. My beautiful Holguin had been transformed into a unhappy city so I stayed for 5 days there. After the disappointing trip I was really ready for Baracoa. I pulled into Baracoa on day 13 of my trip. It is a long drive from Holguin and I was tired and wanted a shower. It was mid day. There was no response at the door. The neighbors came out to greet me and there were many hugs and a few tears. My pal was in Guantanamo I learned. Guantanamo is the capital of Baracoas province that bears the name of the capital city. It is a bit shorter than the ride from Holguin but still a difficult drive over La Farola. I was several days early. I then learned that there was a problem with the tourist license due to the new Governors harsh new policies. Grrrrrrrr.
My pal arrived at around 7 : 00 PM and he was ashamed and in tears. I tried to comfort him as he spilled the news of exactly what had happened in my favorite Cuban getaway. It was the same policies that had driven me from my beloved towns. You bet I was angry. This squeezing of the peaceful Baracoans was the last straw. I stayed for three days full of Cuban tears and anguish nearby in another charming house. During the rare times I was en Casa or at home the inspectors visited five times. What were they doing? Squeezing the life out of the Cubans. Looking for bribes. How sad. I decided I could not take anymore of this and would try Guantanamo.
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Private Clubs for Men and Women
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Apr 9, 2006 11:05 am
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I try to be concerned about equality of the sexes. I believe in equal pay for equal work. I believe in the equality of women. But I have a problem here. Why should a woman's athletic club be forced to admit me? Why should one of my favorite golf courses Augusta National Golf Club National be pressured to admit a woman? Now I have a right in my country to join the Woman's board of the Art Institute of Chicago. This is bullshit. This does not have anything at all to do with equality for the sexes.
I think men and women should have places where they can go and be exclusively with their on sex. If men want to get together and swear, cuss and tell hunting stories why should they be prohibited? If women want to get together and discuss fashion and menstruation why shouldn't they? There are plenty of places men and women can go together. If a man joins a woman's club new bathrooms and locker rooms must be made. No more swimming naked in the club pool. The same for the men's clubs.
So what has happened here in my country? Overzealous lawyers are certainly partly to blame (as in almost all our problems) but it is more than that. Sometimes men and women go overboard in their efforts to be make a point. Should boys be allowed in the Girl Scouts? Girls in the Boy Scouts? Of course not. Should a non gender Scouts be created? Maybe. However the private clubs should be left alone.
With Respect, Spencer
Note Pictured the WAC in Chicago (Woman's Athletic Club)
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Ten More Getlemanly Acts
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Apr 9, 2006 8:57 am
1371 Views
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1) The lady sits on a gentleman's right side at a function.
2)If a relationship goes sour try to part as friends or at least on a cordial basis, Never, Ever stalk a woman for any reason whatsoever, get over it Dude.
3) A gentleman cares about his appearance and personal hygiene. He should dress neatly no matter what his financial situation.
4) Elbows are off the table and feet are off the furniture.
5) Always give your seat to a lady or any elder.
6) Do not spit, try not to yawn, don't burp, excuse yourself to pass gas.
7) A gentleman takes his dog for a walk with a plastic bag and uses it.
Never force yourself on a lady or anyone, No means No.
9) Say what you mean and mean what you say, a gentleman's word is his bond.
10) Treat all human beings as equals, be considerate of others and respect others opinions (even if you disagree)
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Love My Definition
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Apr 9, 2006 8:54 am
1464 Views
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I often laugh when hearing stories about that difficult time...the first time .....One says " I love you" For some people hearing "I love you" is even more difficult than saying "I love you". So if you have this apprehension to this age old expression, let me give you an idea. Use my definition. The best Philosophies are always evolving...finding a better philosophy is my philosophy. Sure I have a philosophy but if I hear a better one...It becomes my new philosophy.
Saying or hearing "I love you" is never difficult for me. Why? Because early on in a relationship before there is a possibility of saying or hearing "I love you" I explain my philosophy. I explain that for me love is a very simple concept. "Love" to me simply means that I will care about, support and always try to think of this person in a positive light...all the days of my life. If I have not seen my recipient in years, it does not matter. I will continue to love them. Also, my love is not exclusive to women, I love men as well, I have loved dogs or pets. My love is unconditional and everlasting. My love is no less significant, it simply does not have anything to do with romance
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American Supermarkets and Waste
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Apr 7, 2006 6:20 pm
1472 Views
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The Limited clothing store comes to my mind as I pass the back of my local Walmart store. The Limited lowers their prices the longer clothes stay on their shelves. In Nogales we have supposedly the largest Walmat (gross volume) in the U.S. Now, I was passing the back of the store. Ours is a combo or Superstore with groceries. I saw them throwing out the trash. HUGE amounts of food. They and I suppose most grocery stores throw all the dated food out after expiration. So would not a better plan and more profitable for grocery stores be to reduce the price as it nears expiration? Or let people who use food stamps buy it at reduced rates. Same with medicine. Why do these Superstores not act like Super community members?
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Extreme Religious Intrepretations
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Apr 7, 2006 6:19 pm
1242 Views
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The Muslim and or Islamic religion is a good one in many aspects.The glaring problem is that it seems to me Muslims and or Islamics have little or no structure above a cleric, no hierarchy. Each cleric operates independently issuing Fatwas at his discretion. Furthermore he interprets the Koran as he deems fit. Therefore, there is no synergy. If there was an existing structure a higher authority then there would be alot less terrorists......
Now I do have several Muslim and or Islamic friends here on this site and off site. I do not mean for my observation to offend anyone. I encourage comments from my friends here. Perhaps my observation is wrong? If so please tell me how so and why these radical clerics are allowed to issue Fatwas that seem to the majority of Muslims and and or Islamics and for that matter,the world as contrary to the mainstream teachings of the Koran.
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The Andrew Marshall King Trophy Year 4
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Apr 7, 2006 6:16 pm
1329 Views
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One of the many things I am proud of related to my brother Andy is how his memory is being preserved. He was a larger than life persona and he touched many peoples lives. He was a people person who preferred a bear hug to a handshake, this was one of his trademarks. He was a fine golfer who would play for money and actually cheer and root for his competitor instead of whispering under his breath " miss it miss it" as so many of us are guilty of. He was very convincing as now I am able to root for my competitor as well.
It was indeed a terrible tragedy that affected all of us on 9-11-2001. My brother is remembered through many different events and memorials. A few of these are: The Andrew Marshall King Memorial Bridge designed by my father located in Chicago where we grew up. It is a beautiful single span stone bridge inspired by the Swilkin bridge at the famous golf course Saint Andrews in Scotland; Several scholarships are in his name from Universities, Prep Schools, Secondary Schools, and Primary Schools; The institutions also celebrate his memory with various other tributes besides the scholarships; The soon to be opened Chicago History section at the Elgin Academy is one example; Significant donations are made to various Cultural and Humanitarian causes each year;
Then there is the sports events. My brother was a gamer. He really loved his sports and he was perhaps the most enjoyable person to be with while eventing. If you had the chance to see a mediocre concert with him, it would turn into a favorite simply because of his presence. He knew how to have fun and encourage those of us around him to have fun. Did we ever! Nowhere was this more pronounced than in sports. One may not have brought his or her A game to a competition with my brother, but everyone I know left the contest having played an inspired contest, in whatever sport the day provided. The stories are mythical, countless of them, how my brother inspired his fellow competitors or teammates to new heights. He coaxed those around him to higher levels of excellence than we thought possible.
There is a Basketball tournament, Soccer tournament, Several golf tournaments and even a croquet tournament in his name.The golf tournament at his home course in Princeton, New Jersey is a parent child tournament. This is always a special day reminding us of importance of family sports manifested through his three children and the hundreds of children who he encouraged through the years. There is a golf tournament in Chicago bearing his name, one in Atlanta thrown by his friends at the University of North Carolina, and then there is my tournament in Havana, Cuba.
You might ask why Cuba? First my brother loved the Cubans especially their cigars...LOL. In 1997 the Cuban National Ballet earned the right to be the first Cultural exchange on the Cuban side during the Clinton Presidency. This was a great program that promoted the exchange of culture and thus promoted and understanding of our two cultures. Through interaction between the two countries the Cubans learned of our culture and we of theirs. The National Ballet of Cuba was to be the first in a long line of cultural entities to visit the USA. I had and have the pleasure of being close to the ballet and it's founder prima Ballerina Alicia Alonso. There were to be two stops on the tour, the first in Los Angelas and the second in the Big Apple, New York City. I had arranged to meet my friends with the Ballet in LA and hosted the company to a few dinners to ease their transition, with a friendly face they had known for years. I then met them in NYC. NYC was of course my brother's town he was a star there. He was a partner with the firm of Cantor Fitzgerald with offices located on the 104th floor of the World Trade Center's North Tower. Part of my strategy was to give the company a tour and what better place than the Twin Towers? Andrew was hot on the idea. Cantor was one of the top financial firms in the world with customers all over the free world. There were rows and endless rows of telephones where the traders made their trades staying in contact with their customers all over the world.
Now the Cubans are very poor with the average monthly salary being a mere 45.00. They were allowed to enter the USA with two boxes of the finest tobacco in the world....Cuban Cigars.They were hoping to make a small fortune by selling these cigars and taking the money home to their families. It was an important big deal for them and I knew this.In LA we had gone to a few wide eyed tobacco shops to get a feel for the prices.. Most were underwhelming with the greedy tobacco owners wanting to make the lion's share of the profits.Still most of the boxes (of 25 cigars) averaged 300.00 USD. A tidy profit. Knowing my brother and his pals routinely bought Cuban cigars at much higher prices I gave him a call. Andy suggested that next week when we came to NYC we have " a little auction" right after the markets closed for the day. Although there were at least a thousand traders on the 3 floors working with Cantor in the top three floors of the North Tower, my brother did not limit the auction to them, All week he stoked the auction with his worldwide clients!
When we arrived I had procured Andy seats for he and his daughter at the theater. He was amazed at the performance sitting next to me. The Cuban Ballet is one of the finest Classical Ballet companies on this planet. I took them backstage and met the dancers after their inspired preformance. The next day was the off day for the ballet and we showed up at Andy's office 15 minutes before the close of trading to watch the frenzy that always accompanies a market close.The Cubans were wild eyed at the frantic screaming associated with the close of the markets. They were awed by the views from the top of the WTC and of course by my Brother's tour of the offices. Now it was time for the auction. The first box sold for 725.00USD followed by similar prices for all. The Cubans were openly crying at their good fortune...It was a big deal. My Brother's gift to them. Afterword he had another surprise for them he took us all to the Plaza Hotel for dinner.The Plaza owned by Donald Trump is perhaps the most famous and expensive of the New York Hotels. He picked up the tab for everyone with a wave and a smile, while smoking one of the Cuban cigars out of the box he bought for himself.I can still see him now grinning.
So after the Towers fell the Cubans sent me emails and letters and even called. There were no Cubans in the Towers but they felt as if their adopted friend was their own, my brother was mourned. Word got around. On my next trip I could not walk down a street in the city of 2 million without someone expressing their grief. It was very very touching for me. I was grateful.So on the following trip I arrived with a giant trophy inscribed " Andrew Marshall King Trofeo" I set up a golf tournament at the Havana Golf Club where I have belonged for many years. The tournament is a two day event with teams of two players in partnership. The tournament is named the 9-11 Tournament and is dedicated to those lives lost on 9-11. It is a weekend that we celebrate the lives of those lost, we do not mourn their deaths. It is always the first Tournament of the New Year, and is very well attended. It is free and open to all members, their guests, employees of the club. Members are encouraged to play with their caddies or other Cubans making it a special day. Most of the tournaments at the club are not open to everyone. So it is a very special weekend. We normally attend the Ballet on the night after the Saturday golf. So if you are a golfer please come sometime, as mine and my Brother's guest. Two Cubans Juan Torres and Carlos Garcias were the proud winners this year.
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The Greatest Sport
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Apr 6, 2006 2:03 am
1356 Views
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Is Golf. " Spencer are you crazy?" Nope, here is why.
1) It is normally an individual sport but can be played in various team formats. No credit to share or blame to shed as with other individual sports.
2) Is there any place more beautiful than a golf course? The finely cut grass, the old trees, the design and challenge of each hole.
3) Each hole presents a different challenge, the same 18 holes can change dramatically depending on wind, rain. Never does one play the same hole exactly the same (except a hole in one).
4) 18 holes is about 4 miles, the terrain is up and down often providing a energetic walk and good exercise.If one carries a bag full of clubs it is more stimulating.
5) I know of no other game where the participants call penalties on themselves. Thus it is the most honorable game... Or the most dishonorable game. It is said that if you want to know the character of a person, play golf with them. The observant player will be aware of any cheating that takes place.
6) It is an elegant game, that looks simple but is not. Etiquette is a very important part of this game.
7) It is a great sport for parent child relationships and business relationships.
There are several drawbacks to the sport.
1) Several countries or locations do not offer golf to the public. In these countries unfortunately it is an elitist sport. Here in the US 64% of golf courses are public.
2)Equipment cost is expensive, however buying used equipment is a considerable savings. A complete set can easily be bought for under 100.00USD on eBay. Balls can be found rather than bought. The price to play here in the US is between 10.00 per 18 holes and 500.00 per 18 holes average price is around 30.00USD per 18 holes. There are many inner city programs that provide an avenue to youth at little or no cost through donations.
3) An average 18hole round of golf takes 3:45min hours. but can take anywhere from 1:30min to 6 hours.
A great introduction to the game for youth can be working at a golf course as either a caddie or groundskeeper. Both of these jobs present strong possibilities to go to college on scholarships and make important and lifetime friends with other golfers. Mondays are normally a day when courses are closed to allow their employees to work 1/2 day and play (for free) another 1/2 day.
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To link to this blog (bilingual) use [blog bilingual] in your messages.
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